Northampton and its surrounding towns have been the heart of English shoemaking for over five centuries. Today, this small corner of Northamptonshire remains home to some of the finest shoemakers in the world — all producing Goodyear welted shoes that are built to last a lifetime.
At English Brands, we stock four of Northampton's finest: Tricker's, Joseph Cheaney, Loake, and Barker. We also carry Sanders and Solovair from nearby Rushden and Wollaston. This guide compares the four main Northampton makers to help you choose the right brand for your needs.
The Quick Comparison
| Feature | Loake | Barker | Cheaney | Tricker's |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Founded | 1880 | 1880 | 1886 | 1829 |
| Location | Kettering | Earls Barton | Desborough | Northampton |
| Price range | £225-350 | £225-350 | £350-500 | £400-600 |
| Best known for | Value, accessibility | Colourful styles | Hand finishing | Country boots |
| Construction | Goodyear welt | Goodyear welt | Goodyear welt | Goodyear welt |
| Fitting | F (standard) | F & G widths | F (standard) | 5 (standard) |
| Break-in | Moderate | Moderate | Moderate | Longer |
| Best for | First quality shoes | Versatile collection | Premium everyday | Country & outdoor |
Loake: The Best Place to Start
Loake is the most accessible of the Northampton makers, offering genuine Goodyear welted construction at prices that make quality English shoes achievable for most budgets. Founded in 1880 by three Loake brothers, the company remains family-owned and continues to manufacture in Kettering.
Loake's premium 1880 range is where the real value lies. The Chester brogue, Aldwych Oxford, and Bedale boot are all benchmarks in their categories — well-made, well-priced, and consistently good.
Best Loake to buy first: The Chester Brogue — a classic full brogue that works with suits, jeans, and everything in between.
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Barker: The Versatile Choice
Barker occupies the middle ground between Loake's accessibility and Cheaney's premium positioning. Founded in 1880 in Earls Barton, Barker is known for consistent quality, excellent leather selection, and a willingness to experiment with colour and style that the more traditional makers sometimes lack.
Barker is the brand for men who want something slightly distinctive. Their use of two-tone leathers, bold colour combinations, and creative detailing gives their shoes personality without sacrificing quality.
Best Barker to buy first: The Grant Brogue in Cedar Calf — a classic wing-tip brogue in a versatile tan that works across all seasons.
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Joseph Cheaney: The Connoisseur's Choice
Cheaney represents the sweet spot between accessible quality and true luxury. Founded in 1886 and now owned by the Church family (of Church's shoes fame), Cheaney shoes benefit from exceptional leather selection and extensive hand finishing at a price point well below the true luxury brands.
Every pair of Cheaney shoes passes through over 160 hand operations across eight weeks of manufacture. The hand-burnished finishes — particularly the Dark Leaf and Mocha tones — are among the most beautiful in English shoemaking.
Best Cheaney to buy first: The Arthur III Brogue in Dark Leaf — a refined full brogue Oxford with hand-burnished leather that photographs beautifully and improves with age.
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Tricker's: The Country Specialist
Tricker's is the oldest of the four brands, founded in 1829, and arguably the most respected for sheer build quality. Tricker's shoes and boots are built like tanks — heavy-duty calf leather, double leather soles, and a robust construction that makes them virtually indestructible.
The trade-off for this durability is a longer break-in period. New Tricker's shoes are notoriously stiff for the first few weeks, but once broken in, they mould to your feet and become extraordinarily comfortable. A pair of well-maintained Tricker's will outlast any other shoe on this list.
Best Tricker's to buy first: The Bourton Brogue in Acorn Antique — widely considered one of the greatest country shoes ever made.
Shop Tricker's at English Brands →
What About Sanders and Solovair?
Sanders (est. 1873, Rushden) deserves a special mention for value. Their Military Collection, available exclusively at English Brands, offers Goodyear welted shoes in clean, military-inspired designs at prices starting from £299. If budget matters but you want English-made quality, Sanders is the answer.
Shop Sanders at English Brands →
Solovair (est. 1881, Wollaston) is the original English-made air-cushioned sole boot. For men who want the look of a classic derby boot with the comfort of a bouncing sole, Solovair is unmatched — and everything is still made in their Northamptonshire factory.
Shop Solovair at English Brands →
What to Buy First: Building a Shoe Collection
If you are building a shoe collection from scratch, here is a sensible order:
- First: A tan/cedar brogue (Loake Chester or Barker Grant) — the most versatile shoe
- Second: A black Oxford (Cheaney Beaton or Barker Arnold) — for formal occasions
- Third: A pair of Chelsea boots (Sanders Bucharest or R.M. Williams Craftsman) — for casual wear
- Fourth: A country brogue (Tricker's Bourton) — for weekends and outdoor wear
- Fifth: A pair of loafers (Cheaney Hudson or Barker Studland) — for summer
Final Advice
All four brands make excellent shoes. You will not be disappointed by any of them. The choice comes down to three factors:
- Budget: Loake < Barker < Cheaney < Tricker's
- Style: Barker for personality, Cheaney for elegance, Tricker's for robustness, Loake for classics
- Use: Town shoes → Cheaney or Loake. Country shoes → Tricker's. All-round → Barker
English Brands sells genuine Tricker's, Joseph Cheaney, Loake, Barker, Sanders, and Solovair. Free UK delivery on orders over £50. Visit our Birmingham Mailbox boutique to try shoes on in person.